0ne leg outdoor side tables professional#

0ne leg outdoor side tables professional#

That's why we offer a 5-year warranty on all our product designs – but of course we expect them to last even longer.įor quick and easy delivery and assembly, our professional service team can help you. To get between the slat boards we used a foam brush.5-YEAR WARRANTY ON ALL BOCONCEPT PRODUCTSĪt BoConcept, we develop beautiful designs from the best materials to ensure a high, enduring quality. Just like the matching DIY outdoor chair, DIY outdoor couch, and DIY outdoor coffee table, and DIY outdoor dining table, we used one coat of Valspar semi transparent exterior stain in Pine bark. Then, sand the wood filler and any joints that don’t sit flush with each other. Fill holes, sand, and stain the side tableįill the screw and nail holes with stainable wood filler. Repeat these steps on the other side of the side table to complete the build! 6. Make sure the screws are countersunk beneath the wood surface since you will fill them with wood filler later.Īlso, make sure to avoid drilling through the area where the Kreg screw and brad nail went through on the table frame. We found it easiest to lay the table top on its side with a clamp and then clamp the table leg to it. Attach table legs to the tabletopĪttach one of the table legs to the table top with waterproof wood glue and a 2 1/2″ deck screw (these self tapping screws don’t require pre-drilling). Repeat all of these steps again to create a second table leg. Repeat this on the other side to form one of your DIY outdoor side table leg sides. We found it easiest to clamp the boards down to our work surface for easy attaching. Next, mark 3 1/2″ up from the bottom of two of the 2×3 boards 14 1/2″ without pocket holes.Īttach the 14 1/2″ board with pocket holes at this mark perpendicular and flush with the edge using 2 1/2″ Kreg screws and wood glue. We had to use a large clamp to hold the boards in place on our Kreg Jig in order to drill them into the 2×3 side edges. Make sure to add them on the side edgesas shown in the photo below so that the holes will be hidden. Assemble DIY outdoor side table legsĪdjust the Kreg Jig setting for 1 1/2″ thick wood then add two pocket holes on both sides of two of the 2x3s 14 1/2″. Also, I found it easiest to use our Kreg right angle clamp to help with this step. The 1×4 slat boards should be attached with a 1/2″ gap between each of them and the side table frame.Īttach each board one at a time with 1 1/4″ outdoor Kreg screws. When attaching framing lumber to square edge lumber it helps to place a popsicle stick (or wood shim) under your slat boards when attaching them to the frame, otherwise they may stick up slightly above the 2×3 framing lumber frame once you flip the tabletop over. Make sure to adjust your Kreg Jig settings for 3/4″ thick wood and then add two pocket holes to each end of the 1×4 boards. The measurements should be 12 1/2″ but since we’re working with framing lumber, they may be slightly different. Measure the exact distance between the side frames and cut three 1x4s to this size. Repeat these steps on the other three sides to complete the square frame of the outdoor side table. Note, you can see all of these steps in action in the DIY outdoor side table VIDEO tutorial here! Add the screw in slowly since the hole is near the corner. Make sure to stay away from where the pocket hole screw will be going through.Īfter nailing, add a 2 1/2″ outdoor Kreg screw into the pocket hole.

Use a brad nailer and 2″ brad nails and nail through the two boards together.

Then, clamp them down together to your work surface. Next, add waterproof wood glue between one of the 2x3s 17 1/2″ with a pocket hole and one 2×3 17 1/2″ without the holes. So, when drilling the hole for each one, make sure to line the board up carefully with drill hole B on the Kreg Jig as shown here: Use a Kreg Jig and add one pocket hole on each side of two of the 2x3s 17 1/2″ with 45 degree cuts.īecause these boards are cut with a 45 degree angle, they are only wide enough to fit one pocket hole that doesn’t show on the side of the board. Then, cut four 2x3s with a 45 degree angle at 17 1/2″ from long point to long point for the table top frame.

Use a miter saw and cut six 2x3s 14 1/2″ (for the table legs). Make the initial lumber cutsĬlick here for the printable DIY outdoor side table plans which include the cut list and step by step building steps with easy to follow diagrams!